Getting the Heat Right in Your SIPA SFR 16 or KHS Blow Molder
If your PET preforms aren’t heating evenly, you’re going to end up with wonky wall thickness and bottles that just fail. It’s frustrating. When you’re running a SIPA SFR 16 or a KHS rotary system, those lamps aren’t just there to light things up. They’re doing the heavy lifting. We’ve seen too many shops struggle with “cold spots” because they’re using generic tubes, so we built our replacement lamps to actually fix that. The nitty-gritty on heat These lamps use shortwave infrared radiation. By tweaking the tungsten filament density and the thickness of the quartz, we make sure the heat hits the preform consistently from one end of the tube to the other. But here’s a warning: watch your voltage. If you plug a 230V lamp into a 400V circuit, you’ll fry the filament in a few hours. It’s that simple. We match our lamps to the exact wattage and voltage the KHS and SIPA footprints need so you don’t have to guess. Built for the grind We use high-purity quartz glass because these things go through a lot of thermal shock during rapid cycling. As for the installation? It’s a breeze. They’re drop-in replacements. You won’t have to spend your afternoon rewiring the oven. We use heavy-duty sockets (like R7s) that can handle a high current draw without melting your housing into a plastic mess. What actually happens on the shop floor High-wattage lamps are great for fast cycle times. But there’s a catch. More power means the inside of your heating oven gets hotter. This is where a lot of people trip up. You’ve got to make sure your cooling blowers are clean and actually working. If your airflow is choked, even the best lamp in the world will overheat the surface of the PET. That’s how you get those annoying “pearls” or burnt spots. Pop these into your rotary system. You’ll get a tighter thermal window and way less scrap hitting the floor.